The Big Problem With Calling African Fashion ‘Tribal’
“Design is my tool for telling stories about my home.”
You don’t need to be a veteran style editor or a high-profile blogger to recognize the huge influence African culture has on the fashion industry. From the runways of Junya Watanabe to the racks of H&M, designers and brands have reinterpreted the Ankara prints traditionally worn by African men and women for centuries into ready-to-wear pieces now considered “trendy.”
While Rwandan designer Matthew Rugamba doesn’t believe African textiles should be limited to African designers and brands, it does irritate him, he said, when designers draw inspiration from different African cultures, using African textiles and then employing phrases like “tribal” to describe them. “Some of the patterns and colors have great significance in different African cultures, so it is condescending to reduce some of these designs to a single phrase,” he told HuffPost.
His objective: “Capture that African style and elegance that you could spot from a mile away.”
The 25-year-old launched House of Tayo, a bespoke label specializing in unisex neck ties, bow ties and snoods that are made in Rugamba’s native country of Rwanda. The label fuses the bold and vibrant African prints of the past with modern tailoring for a sophisticated yet edgy aesthetic.
HOUSE OF TAYO
“Dispelling myths and sharing anecdotes of life growing up in various parts of Africa has been an equally enlightening experience for me and for those I share my stories with,” said Rugamba. “As a result, my appreciation for my culture and history became something that I became particularly keen on sharing. One of the most powerful ways I thought I could do this was through clothing. Design is my tool for telling stories about my home.”
Wearing bow ties has been a part of Rugamba’s impeccable style since he was a child. At 3 years old, the designer was appointed page boy/ringbearer in an aunt’s wedding. “It was a civil wedding so it was very unusual to have a page boy. Ever since then, I wore bow ties for all big occasions,” he said. His father taught him how to tie one at the tender age of 4.
HOUSE OF TAYO/MATTHEW RUGAMBA
Rugamba points out there has always been an element of class associated with bow ties. One of the main reasons he started House of Tayo was “to show a side of Africa that many people around the world don’t see — a stylish, dignified and vibrant Africa.” He also realized that many of his friends and acquaintances, who were also proud of their African heritage, believed that the clothes available on the market were either “too conspicuous, very out of style or poor quality.”
“I thought that the bow tie would be a great accessory to show individuality, heritage and personal style in a bold yet elegant manner,” he said.
HOUSE OF TAYO
With no previous experience in fashion or design, Rugamba started his business using savings from a summer job he held before his junior year of college. “I was halfway through my undergraduate degree in international relations,” he said. “I didn’t want to go around raising large sums of capital without a better understanding of the industry I was getting into.”
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